We won't be the silent types

Finally! I've decided to sit down and recollect my thoughts. I might be forgetting a lot of things, but I will try my best to be detailed as possible. WARNING: Long entry ahead.

And so my journey begins back in New York at JFK airport on January 10th at 10 PM. Wow, that feels like years ago. I've always flown domestic at JFK so that was a journey in it of itself. I walked to the KLM airline sections and I was suddenly a minority. I was surrounded by people who had different skin colors, were speaking different languages, and were wrapped in all sorts of garments. It was such a thrilling moment. There was something really interesting about being a very noticeable minority. After going through the craze that was security, I sat in at the terminal and then it hit me- shit. I'm going abroad. I looked around and didn't see anyone who looked NYU-esque. Eventually I would meet two other girls that were incredibly nice, but for the first time ever- I think I felt a little homesick.

I went onto my plane which was TWO STORIES (!!) I couldn't even believe it. I took my jet lag pill and tried my best to attempt to sleep for my seven hour flight. Every time I would wake up I would hear them make these announcements in this strange language. Later I found out it was Dutch. But honestly, I was so delirious that I thought that whole plane ride was an eternal dream. People said that they served four meals and played movies... but I seemed to have missed out on anything. FINALLY we arrived in Amsterdam! Still not jet lagged (thanks to the awesome pill Becca gave me) ... the airport was really beautiful and had great light that came in from the windows. I had some really fresh orange juice that I would later find out would cost me close to eight dollars. The bottle couldn't have been any larger than my palm . Thank you pound system. So then I made my connecting flight to Ghana and I saw a hugee group of NYU people. We all exchanged names, majors, the whole deal. It really felt like this trip was going to breeze by. And then our seven hour journey began.

I don't know how else to describe that plane ride other than ETERNAL. My body was so out of wack about what time it was and the hours were just going by slower than ever. I thought maybe staying away would make time go by faster. Nope. I watched Million Dollar Baby (which was SO good) and kept trying to force myself to sleep. Because I was so restless I kept telling myself how much I didn't want to be there and how I wished I could just turn around and go home. But I just breathed it out (thank you Yoga to the People) and looked forward.

So then we landed after 20 million hours. When we walked down the stairs the moon was shining incredibly bright and the night so was peaceful. All the anxiety and second guessing sort of just disappeared. NYU staff was waiting for us and after getting our bags, we walked outside of the airport. We walked in a huge pack- most of us white- and looked like complete outcasts amongst all the beautiful dark Africans that were watching us. I had never felt like such an obvious minority like this before. We piled in and headed toward my new living quarters, Church Crescent.

Sooo then orientation week started, which was incredible. We had some lectures on religion in Ghana; society, culture, and modernization in Ghana; customs and traditions; literature and art etc etc etc. There was a specific emphasis on the city Accra (which is where I live) which is a pretty upbeat, flourishing city. What we have learned over time is that when the colonists came to settle here, they brought religion, education, and some goods along the coast of Ghana. This meant that the country's inward regions lacked in rich resources. As a result, the better education (University of Ghana included) is found in the areas closest to the coast, which is where Accra is. We also learned about how religion is extremely important to the Ghanian culture. What is unique about Ghana though is that the people are tolerant and educated about other religions. One of the lecturers was giving the example of how he is part of the Christian church but how he recently went to a Muslim funeral in his Pastor attire. It is this level of tolerance that has kept Ghana as one of the safest and prospering countries in Africa to this day. I asked what would happen now that the oil reserves were recently found and the professor just laughed and said that oil has only been here, and that we must trust in God to not let us go astray. They reference God for everything. Not kidding. I'm really starting to appreciate it though.

So more about orientation- we had a welcome lunch at Headlines hospitality which was absolutely INCREDIBLE. I honestly don't remember what we ate, but there was a lot of chicken, beans, plantains, and ricey things. It was all really spicy but so good! It took us about two hours to get through lunch. It was absolutely beautiful. No one was rushed to go anywhere, we just let the beautiful afternoon unfold as we all got to know one another. It was such a beautiful welcome to Ghana. I think it was then when I finally realized that Ghanian time was something that I wanted to bring back to my life when I go back to New York. I heard recently from a professor at the University of Ghana say it best; she said, "We go by the time. You all go by the watch." I love it. Time to go by the time!

Some other exciting things about orientation:
We went to Osu which is a pretty touristy area which hotels. We ate at this place Frankie's which was American cuisine. I was kind of confused as to why so many people were craving having American food so badly. I think sometimes we forget how rare this opportunity is of being in a completely UNFAMILIAR place that we hide in all that's comfortable. Regardless, it was still very nice to walk around the Osu area, but it was just so annoying to have all the vendors think they could take advantage of me because I was a tourist. I just wanted to say, I'M A NEW YORKER - I know how to bargain! lol On what would be Thursday of orientation the real action began. I was having trouble taking deep breaths and so I talked to the nurse about it and she suggested I go to the hospital. One of the guys on the trip had gotten food poisoning so together we were driven to the hospital. After many dirt roads and twisting and turning we got to the hospital.

We walked in it seriously looked like a really strange resort. Everything was outside. It reminded me of my elementary school sort of. Because we have an account with the hospital as NYU students, we were instantly seen and the real action began. I was taken into the "temperature room" where they put a thermometer under my armpit andd took my blood pressure in what looked like a converted bathroom with ceiling fans. It was so strange to see them put down my information in a composition notebook. I'm so used to Western technology where everything is input into a computer and all the doctors are all technologically savvy. They took their time with me and then told me to go to another waiting room. So off I went and then I went into a room that looked like a classroom (that also just had ceiling fans) with the windows all open. A nurse called me into the doctor's office and on his desk I spotted "Audacity of Hope" by Barack Obama haha. I explained my symptoms, he did a check and then off I went to do blood tests. So I went to this room on the other side of the hospital where I was basically freaking out. My CRA (which is like an RA) was with me calming me down. The male nurse just casually drew some blood and couldn't understand why I was so freaked out by it all. I think Americans are taught to freak out during shots and needles. So the next day I went back still with breathing problems and they did an XRAY in a room that had equipment from the 80s. As crazy as this sounds, I was just so fascinated by how non-modernized (?) everything was. They were using the longer way of doing things, but it was still as efficient. Because in actuality, I got my XRAYS and diagnosis much faster than I have ever had in the US. Hmm.

So then I thought well great. I'm never going back there again. Well as per the story of my life..... I was wrong.

But before we get to that story... I had some great experiences before my second hospital incident. One of my favorite sites we went to thus far was our trip to the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum. He was the first president of Ghana who basically brought the ideas of democracy to Ghana. His motto was "Forward ever- backward never!" I'll upload some pictures of that site because it was truly beautiful. Other fun things were did was go to the US Embassy to have a safety briefing and explanation of the State's involvement in Ghana. To be fair, I really appreciated them taking the time to host such a nice event for us and really make themselves available and everything buttttt... I was a little skeptical. It just seemed like there was a lot of talk about "we're teaching them [meaning the Ghanians our way of doing things" which is GREAT in theory... but I think there is something very valuable about respecting a culture and acting more as a support system versus a disciplinary and enforcement system. I mean, this is a country that has lived in peace for over fifty years now, so I mean who is the US to come in here to try to play police? But again, I really appreciated being there. The embassy house was SO beautiful. It reminded me of my house in Miami... they had bougainvillea trees and poinciana trees as well. It felt like being in my own backyard. Although it can be somewhat suffocating at times, there is something very comforting about the humidity that you always feel here. It's like a nice little blanket =) There was also another fun night we had when we went "out on the town" with our CRAs to this outdoor club. There was this live band that was playing with incredible rhythm.. it was just indescribable. We all danced for hours and were literally SOAKED in sweat. Ghanians are pretty forceful when it comes to dancing and it is interpreted that you are interested in someone if you dance with them longer than one dance. It was so beautiful to literally be dancing under stars. I kept looking up and thinking, I can't believe I'm finally here.


So then it happened. So for dinner Mondays-Fridays we have this meal plan where these two restaurants prepare buffet dinners for us. The food is INCREDIBLE and fresh and some home-y like. It reminds me of my mommy's cooking. It's so delicious. But every time you eat something, you literally feel like you have to go to the bathroom. We're all very comfortable with sharing our bathroom habits at this time. haha But anyway, we were taking our bus to Tanta Marie's and I was the second person out of the bus (god knows I was SO hungry) and it was pitch black outside so I took a few steps and BAM... my entire right leg fell into the gutter and you know... I thought I was fine... so I picked myself up and I thought I was fine, but then I looked down at my big toe nail, and I realized it had flipped up and blood was gushing everywhere. I don't really know what happened from then on. I know people were saying OH MY GOD OH MY GOD and I know they sat me down in the restaurant and that I kept apologizing for spilling blood everywhere. Thankfully, my friend Mary Kate was prepped with her first aid kit and put her nursing skills to practice. I seriously don't know what would have happened with out her. So then sure enough, off I went to the hospital.............again.

This time around, it was like I was a celebrity. Everyone knew me. I was VIP. I was wobbling all around the hospital trying to figure out where I was supposed to be. Luckily my roommate Mal and CRA was with me and keeping me calm throughout the process. When the doctor (who had seen me the other day too) walked in he literally was like 'Oh, you're here again...' There was a maintenance guy there who offered me a piggy back ride because he saw me limping hahah. BUT I DIGRESS! The doctor looked at my toe very patiently and nonchalantly and then just said that he had to cut off my toe. Yep, cut. off. my. toe. I thought maybe he had made a mistake but no, he kept repeating it. We have to cut off your toe.

WELL........ What he really meant was.. we have to cut off your TOE NAIL. So then that happened which was the most excruciating pain I have ever felt in my life and finally I was wrapped up and ready to go. The entire time I was thinking "YES AND-" so it really helped with the process. lol Thank you palooza cult. So currently, I have seen more of the hospital than I have the beach. BUT NOT TO WORRY! That will all change soon.

Other fun things- we went to Kaneshi market which was absolutely CRAZY. As soon as we walked out of our van (which is like the marshmallow van we used during AIA) there was a pig being roasted over a fire pit. An entire pig. (Diana, I'm sure you would have loved it). I was kind of tempted to have a piece, but I held on to my cravings. This market was unlike anything I have ever seen. It was seriously this really beautiful absolute mess. There were all these large women in their traditional wear selling fruits, vegetables, pig skin, fish, spices, and other things that produced this color that was such a strange contrast to the dirt ground below us. The smells were all very strange considering a lot of the women were stationed next to garbage cans and sitting close to one another. I can't decide whether I loved it or hated it. We walked into the indoor area, which looked like a huge cement warehouse with four flours that must have taken over at least two acres of space. There we bought some fabric for 2 cedis for 2 yards of fabric! (2 cedis are approx $2.. it's 1 to 1). There is this woman who makes clothing for us for just 5 cedis so we bought a bunch of fabric. Send me measurements and pictures of dress styles if you are interested in having one made! Another fun adventure we went to was the Artist Alliance Gallery which is the largest art gallery in West Africa. It was this beautiful gallery that overlooked the beach and had humongous windows as you walked up the stairways. The art here is so different, the colors seem to resonate so much louder. We had an artist speak to us and when he was describing his art I thought a lot about my brother. He said something along the lines of like 'my art is a reflection of the beauty that lies in the disorder'. His name is Professor Abladi Glover, really great!

We've all picked up on some Twi (one of the dialects of the Akan) from introductory classes so whenever we are all awalking around we are able to say "Hi how are you" and "I'm fine"... the locales love it. Everywhere we walk people say "Ete sen?" and we respond "Eye!" and thenn they say "Yoooo!" I loved it. Everyone is SO friendly. You can't step outside without having someone say hello to you. But we have to work on more responses because right now we're pretty limited lol

So that was a lot about orientation week and all those great things. Now as for more recently: I've started classes at the University of Ghana and the NYU Academic Center. Some of the classes I'm taking are: African Women Speak (taught by this incredible large beautiful black woman. One of the first things she said was that we would be reading a lot so to get ready. So much for taking it easy this semester); Society, Culture, and Modernization (in this class we're taking a trip to my professor's hometown which should be SO fun!); African Music & Dance (this is taught by one of the most famous choreographers in Africa.. I had my first class today outside in 95 degree weather. I have never felt more uncoordinated in my LIFE.); Twi Accelerated Language (taught by Auntie Akosea who is like the big mama of the NYU academic center. Every time I'm around her I'm floored by how classy and poised she is. She is all about treating your elders with respect, and I don't think I've ever understood that notion until I met her. She is just absolutely beautiful.); and potentially a theatre class at the University of Ghana. UG is a HUGEEEEEEEEEEEE campus. There are actual homes on campus, a post office, clubs, swimming pools... and guess what? Education is FREE. Unreal. There are over 30,000 undergrads so it's like another NYU all together! lol

Yesterday was Obama inauguration. We went to the W.E.B. Du Bois center to watch the coverage on CNN. It was this outdoor center with screen set up. We were under these humongous trees and there was just the greatest breeze. I couldn't have asked to be in a better place. When I was helping set up for the event, a Ghanian man came up to me and congratulated me. He told me how proud he was of Obama and of our country. It was such an honor.

I want to end this entry with some interesting Ghanian customs:
-To say thank you you say "Medaase"
-You never use your left hand to hand anyone anything or point at anything.. it's seen as unclean. If you accidentally do, you say 'pardon my left!'
-You shouldn't cross your legs if you are sitting in front of anyone who is older than you
-Bobbing your thumb up and down is equivalent to flipping your middle finger.
-Being homosexul is illegal. (!!!!!!!) Doesn't mean there isn't a gay community, it's just completely underground. Can you believe that?
- Doing tssss tsssss tsssss is extremely popular to get someone's attention
-To demonstrate please' you put your right hand over your left as if you are offering your hands
-Religion is heavily integrated not only in Ghanian culture but language. To say goodmorning, the translation would be thank God we are alive this morning
-My name is Twi (because I was born on Saturday) is Ama!


Andd I think that's all I can think of for now. I really miss everyone back home a lot. I think about all of you throughout the course of the day and I'm sending you a lot of great energy. I'm soaking in as much as I possibly can so I can share everything in person when I see you all. I'm excited to start community service pretty soon.. the kids here are the cutest things I have ever seen in my life. I still can't believe I'm here.. I'm just so grateful for this experience. Please send me updates from what you are all doing it makes me SO happy to hear from you!

Now that I finally have updated, I promise my entries won't be this long. I send you all my love and great thoughts.

In the words of Obama [paraphrased]-
We must pride ourselves in building, not in destruction.

LOVE LOVE LOVE